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Drug free partying was invented in Singapore, so it's no surprise that there are now many more intimate, style-driven nightspots here without dealers than any other city in the world. Which is a great thing...
You'd think that might be a party dampener, but the nightclub scene is in fact overheating, and to keep up demand the Singapore Tourism Board has recently launched a drive to import more tourist partiers for weekends of good clean fun.
The three main players in the market are the triumvirate of the Zouk complex, Clarke Quay (the Mecca of Singapore's nightlife scene) and the newest behemoth on the scene, St James Power Station at Sentosa gateway.
We will go into depth with each of these places, but first we'd like to share with you the multitude of local venues that actually are more authentic... think of them as the eccentric watering holes in a far away port as opposed to the mega-shopping mall like complexes which come out high in style but low in substance. You'll avoid the queues and long lines in the bathrooms and meet some real characters and local flavors if you dare to venture off the beaten path and pack-them-in sheep stations.
The Singapore Scene
A famous catch phrase from the Pirates of the Caribbean movie was "Welcome to Singapore". And this attitude reflects the fact that there's minimal velvet rope attitude in the Lion City. There are big, burly, oftentimes rude doormen, it's true, and it's an exceedingly bad idea to provoke them. But they aren't there to keep out geeks, dorks or the hordes of losers.
They're there because they couldn't pass the university exam and needed a job. Basically, any westerner can get into any club in town, if you just smile nice and don't act like you're entitled. The cover charge however, is another matter... while many places don't charge to get in, most do; the most you'll ever pay for a cover charge, excluding concerts by Western stars, is about $35 (roughly US$23 - and that will usually be inclusive of a "welcome drink" or two.)
And you won't just get in, you'll fit in. Doesn't matter if it's lounge night for the uber-hip at Zouk or a slammin' indie-punk party at the Substation, age is no barrier to going out. Deejays and rock stars old enough to be fathers take the stage in impressive numbers and play to mostly multi-generational crowds.
You won't win any fashion awards with young clubbers if you go with a very 80s look. Nor will you sweep that lovely lass off her feet at the high-tone Ink Bar when you show up in camo fatigues and a Hawaiian shirt, unless you're Brad Pitt handsome. But the message is, despite the pretension, there's almost no fixed "In place" mentality. You can reinvent yourself as just about any persona you like and no one will look at you twice. Really. (This, of course, has a downside: Singaporean audiences have been accused of not looking twice at the band, much less dancing to them).
Another factor that makes things interesting here is that there's really no concept of fashionably fringe. No one has ever deliberately dirtied up a dance floor in Singapore or hired a design team to create a "you know, cool tumbled-down, grunge kinda effect."
There's a real complaint that there is no real differentiation between venues in Singapore, that if you swapped the signs around you wouldn't know which club you were in. For example, St James Power Station's industrial-remains look is carefully crafted to look just that way, but you could just as easily be in Zouk or Velvet Dragon.
And the trying too hard, overly-schooled style-worshipping deejays aren't refreshing or risk-taking, it's just some people doing their damndest to get it "right". And that should be the heart of any great night of clubbing, right? So relax if it turns out that venues like DXO or Insomnia open the night with a local band, and then switch to deejays playing pop tunes at midnight, the point is to have fun!
Now, about that recurring myth of the uptight Singaporean lifestyle. Seriously, that's a lotta hooey. Although there are aspects of this that do merit attention (don't be stupid and mess around with drugs for example). Sexual attitudes in Asia's nightlife scene are quite different than those in the "enlightened West" - which can make for refreshingly frank exchanges and bemusement for feminists witnessing these oftentimes neon-subtle flirtation rituals with SPGs (Sarong Party Girls) that are long believed extinct in their own lands.
Otherwise, the main feature that distinguishes Singapore's nightlife from one place to the next is the quality of the entertainment.
The albino former frontman of Ronin, Levan Wee may be screeching and writhing on the floor in a pitch-black space at some underground club of the moment (there are a few, they close almost as quickly as they open), providing his own amplification with his voice because the amp blew out, while the Hard Rock Cafe will be hosting yet another night of Reggae covers. Even at the limping end of the spectrum, though, the sense of the surreal can never be fully escaped. In fact, its been said that Singapore is so surreal you don't NEED drugs to trip out on it.
And face it: Even setting aside the infancy of Singapore's club scene, a night out in the most densely populated city in a region as shifting as South East Asia is bound to have its own unique twist.
For example, you're a witness to history if you drop into Tanjong Pagar, where the doorman at Play gives you a thorough once-over before allowing you in (see, someone's finally looking at you) and where "Drag Queen Cabarets" pop up and vanish just as quickly, still somehow attracting nice hetero couples fresh from long days at the office. These places are part of a once unknown scene flourishing in GLB clubs (gay, lesbian, bisexual) that's now at its height and breaking out into the mainstream, one 'letter to the Forum' at a time.
The trade-off for all this newness and cross-fertilization in such a small country, the purists rant, is that no club or music genre ever reaches the level of "greatness" that you find in the west.
They have a point - the handful of deejays that really do know their grooves are money in the bank for nightclub owners, and few are brave enough to break boundaries. (Catch Adrian Wee, who shoots out great Britpop, Alternative, Indie, Punk, Shoegaze, and Electro at Butterfactory ; the jungle sensations of the Deck Slutz at Home Club ; durty south hip-hop and RnB, courtesy of DJ B.I.G at the RedBar in Bugis; or any of the visiting trance and ambient deejays at the Ministry of Sound.)
But where else in 2007 can the raw, pure, love of tunes be seen like this? The whole scene is simply about more basic things than you see elsewhere. The anarchy of Koh Phangan's rave heyday is long gone, Hong Kong's style police are merciless and you'll need a car to get around Kuala Lampur. Singapore alone invites everybody to all-night dance orgies in drug-free alcohol-fuelled bliss.
In fact, the most gloriously fun aspect of Singapore is the preponderance of bizarre, often Disneylandish, night hangs. Non-smokers no longer need air breaks and the often freezing aircon systems in the mega-clubs will make you wonder why the girls go out so scantily clad, but these are small things when there's such a growing number of unique, intimate, strange, LED and candle-lit venues to enjoy on your descent into boozeland.
A more resonant vibe is harder to imagine and so is a more spoilt-for-choice mood. The colonial above-ground shophouses (the best, like Hideout Bar, barely have window panes) are as splendid and surreal as the converted industrial spaces are comforting. Finding out about them is the only real barrier.
During non-monsoon months, keep an eye out for posters (usually torn down as soon as they go up) promising "bangra" nights in Little India, rock gigs in urban parking lots, or anywhere else that looks temporarily available. Occasional teams of German, Dutch or Brit deejays come through town to hit the non-mainstream clubs like Bar Bah Black Chic, set up shop and they're off - just you and fellow partiers grooving to the beats.
Finally, every growing nightlife scene has it's share of agony. Awareness has been slow, but is catching on for things like safe sex and moderation in drink, the tragedies of drink-driving, smoking and substances, and consciousness of the consequences is on the rise thanks to socialistic style awareness campaigns, so let's all be careful out there.
Sources
Venues here, for some unknown reason, are a tad unreliable with their programming, (waiting 'til the last minute to announce their events), but fortunately The Straits Times culture staff know their stuff and turn the sketchy information network into a fairly comprehensive weekly listings available in Fridays' edition. Also out on Fridays, IS Magazine, an arts listings calendar rag, includes occasional club info and is available in most public spaces.
Think Singapore is a free magazine you can find in the city center that lists up-to-the-minute deejay dope in the back, plus lifestyle/conspiracy theory rants. Grab a copy when you see one, because they will be gone before you return to the racks.
Three hip and comprehensive listings websites are mumtazz.com, nightlife.sg and hotspots.com, which have more up-to-date listings on the nightlife scene and you should check the pamphlet-sized review Navigator, which can be found on the free postcard racks with the Zocard logo on them. All these sources as of press time have loads of detailed information on the nightlife venues and events.
But the best way to catch budding greatness is to stumble onto it yourself, which is not a problem in that most of the entertainment venues are centered conveniently around Clarke Quay, Boar Quay and the River Valley Road area, the historical commercial center of Singapore and the most fabled part of the country. A few clubs stake out the upscale Orchard district, while the rest are scattered through Tanjong Pagar, Dempsey Road and Holland Village.
What to wear:
Whatever you feel like wearing (and unless you're at Km8, Coasts or Cafe Del Mar in Sentosa, give up any hope of entry if you plan to wear tank tops, shorts and sandals) you'll find yourself welcome. Often times sneakers are not allowed, even if they did set you back $600 and were designed by Madonna. If you're in the mood, go with silky, sexy clothes, strappy heels and second-skin dresses, cheap plastic barrettes, goatees, Keanu Reeve style shades or an art-skinned iPod. If not, try a black-on-black suit. You're bound to hit it off with the door bitches, anyways.
 What to see and hear:
Rock and underground:
Astreal: An atmospheric yet powerful group, these rockers play dreamy shoe-gazing reminiscent of My Bloody Valentine, Slowdive and Ride. They tour the region quite extensively, so catch them when you can.
Bay Beats: Singapore's own local annual indie pop-rock music festival goes from strength to strength each summer, with new bands, new venues and new shows! For more information, visit www.baybeats.com.sg
Concave Scream: Popular local band that was big back in the '90s, they re-emerged in 2004 to much fanfare and a couple of album releases. Their music has always been reflective of the times, and they've mellowed with time, but still hit the 'must see' list.
Electrico: Need proof that Singapore's coming into it's own? Then check out Electrico, a critically acclaimed indie rock band, making it's mark on the region by inspiring legions of fans and imitators.
Meza Virs: This metal band knows how to rock! On the scene since 2003, they have just staged a comeback with a new album and a sound best described as a little more complex in terms of musical composition.
Muon: A guitar and drum duo's inspired by post-rock, IDM (Intelligent Dance Music), trip-hop, drum'n'bass, cinematic soundscapes and anything twisted enough to connect the dots between these genres.
Stoned Revivals: Hitting their groove in 1997, this quartet contributed to local film-maker Eric Khoo's 'Mee Pok Man' and '12 Storey' soundtracks, as well as Glenn Goei's 'Forever Fever' soundtrack. Huge fanbase and well loved for what Aging Youth calls an 'eclectic, heady blend of pop, soul, funk, bossa nova, triphop and electronica.'
The Great Spy Experiment: Hip, enchanting and groovy music which has been described as 'a champagne-fuelled orgy of power-pop, indie, rock and dance, informed by everything...
The Observatory: This sextet is Singapore's most-beloved band, always on the forefront with experimental new sounds and a changing line-up of guest players.
X Ho: Sporting tattoos and a mohawk, this pioneer of Singapore's alt scene has captivated foreigners and the local indie scene ever since he first threw his fist in the air to rail against the conformity that infects far too many people's thinking here.
Jazz/Funk:
ChromaZone: Leader of the tight, brassy big band sound, this house band is well known for hopscotching genres as easily as their timeless signature songs. A great background band for a night of heavy drinking, but not really a band for the jazz purist.
Greenhouse EFX: Singapore's Premium Jazz Funk/Fusion Quartet, featuring killer bassist Bong, the funkiest drummer alive Tan Boon Gee, veteran saxophonist Teo Boon Chye and Berkelee keyboard grad Ruth Ling. While they might be a new funk/fusion quartet, after catching their debut performance at Sentosa's Siloso Beach, I can safely bet they'll be around for a while.
Jazz @ Southbridge: Only the most gifted of the new generation of international jazz players play here, in world-class performances seven days a week right in the heart of the Singapore River at Boat Quay.
Jeremy Monteiro: Affectionately known as "Singapore's King of Swing", he has recently been busy as Professor and Visiting Chair of Jazz at LASALLE-SIA College of the Arts. A jazz virtuoso, jams regularly with the big names when they come to town.
Nicole Duffel: Hailing from Australia, Nicole is a musician firmly grounded in blues & jazz, and while a formidable soloist in her own right, she regularly plays in the trendier bars and clubs with a variety of groups.
Sessions @ One Rochester: One groovy place to catch jazz is at this plush playground with their Wednesday night Jammin @ Home and Sunday mornings Jazz Jams (11am till 2.30pm). They promise to pamper and surround you with a sensorial audiophile experience, guaranteed to provide great grooves, vocals and accompaniments.
The Lowdown
Trying to get it right... Even with all the wondrously designer and trend-ripping clubs Singapore has now sprouted, it's still possible to be ripped off, depressed and bored, usually without so much as leaving the center of town. If that's really what you want, you'll hardly do better than the New Asia Bar.
Right atop the tourist holy spot of Raffles City, this place has all the novel music, unconventional atmosphere and interesting crowds and value you'd expect it to, which means none. But there is one reason alone for paying the hefty cover charge to go listen to Madonna while drink over-priced Long Island Ice Teas, and that's the view... spectacular, this bar is the highest in Asia.
Giving it a run for its money in the "young adult" category is Ministry of Sound, with a flashy entrance right at the entrance to Clarke Quay's parking garage, and billing itself "the biggest Ministry of Sound in the world". It is huge, in fact. If you're pining for the not-so-distant days when your hangout was crawling with hordes of tackily dressed teens, posing to see who's coolest, then knock yourself out.
Duxton Rd and Duxton Hill is one area with many, many small and intimate nightspots. Here, if you find you're doing remarkably well with the girls, don't take it personally, but... umm, they're on duty. Either cash 'n' carry or of the BMD (buy me drink) varieties.
If all this is still too high-class for you, there's still Joo Chiat Road just a bit further out but still easily accessible by bus or cab and easily the most working-girl-crazed nightmare in town. (At least this one's packed with locals, not touring sexpats.) And if you can't get enough of that lifestyles-of-the-short-con-taxi-driver groove, Paramount Hotel Shopping Complex is the place for you, located appropriately in the bleak HDB apartment zone of East Coast Rd. Had enough?
Don't go changin'... Unfortunately there are few actual old bars left in Singapore to absorb the past in. Everything changes real fast, but there is some history out there to soak up. Big shiny disco-clubs aside, the real Singapore bar scene features the old colonial style venues and they are at their most exquisite at The Bar & Billiard Room at the Raffles Hotel (Or try the touristy Long Bar, home of the Singapore Sling, which nowadays is made from premix).
Asides from a fabulous lunch featuring seafood and their other signature dishes, by evening this venue transforms into a haven for all things old school and colonial with a wide selection of cocktails including their signature cocktail, the Brass Monkey and in a nod to the modern age, over 70 kinds of martinis. Two beautiful antique billiard tables are the focus of the room, where you can enjoy a perfect game, while enjoying the smooth rhythms of the talented house band.
Though unquestionably low-tech, maybe a little shabby, where else can you rock-steady under dimmed lights in a space that once served patrons of ladies of the night? While not exactly old enough to have been here as a bar during the colonial period, you definitely will get that feeling at No 5 Emerald Hill, a 1910 Peranakan shop house full of antique of carvings and unpolished wooden flooring usually littered with peanut shells.
Popular with both expatriates and locals, happy hour here is THE per-clubbing spot to meet up for some pizza and spirits. When this place is bumpin' it's standing room only, unless you were lucky enough to score one of the raised platforms in the back with big cushions and vintage rugs. You'll be right next to the deejay, who spins rock, pop, jazz, blues and R&B to keep the party groovin'.
Not all Singapore venues have so utterly escaped their date with the wrecking ball. One rare gem which was rescued from the building boom is the Colbar. Long popular with expats and locals and their pet dogs, this dodgy ol' bar in the middle of idyllic Wessex Estate is a no frills joint to knock back a few beers and enjoy the simple menu of Western and Asian fare.
Built in 1953, the 'Colonial Bar,' was born when the area was a British military base. The eating house served as a canteen for soldiers who lived in the nearby black-and-white army barracks. Colbar cheated an early demise in 2003 thanks to the efforts of regulars and an intervention by the Jurong Town Council (JTC), who relocated it not far from the old site. Rebuilt brick by brick, it reopened looking no different from what it used to be, just a little less greasy.
A good reason to join and/or make friends with a member of the Singapore Recreation Club is to enjoy beers on the open terrace Beer Garden with a great view of the Padang.. This popular drinking spot sits across from the famous Supreme Court and Parliament House. If you ever want to feel like a colonial master, this is the place to enjoy yourself... without all the guilt that comes from actually being a colonial overlord.
Another great place to get a feel for the old is the Alley Bar, a sweet little space off Orchard Road on the pathway to Emerald Hill. This is a high-ceiling bar laid out in an L shape, so you can tuck yourself away in the back and enjoy some semi-privacy. They have a full kitchen with an eclectic menu, as is their cocktail list. Jazz and lounge music provides a nice background to an evening sipping mojitos with friends and paramours.
If you're looking for a real local without pretension or high prices, look no further than the street behind Raffles Hotel... home of the Lot, Stock & Barrel. On any night of the week, you'll find a nice mix of locals (and expats here long enough to be considered locals), and advertising types hiding from their wives, girlfriends and bosses. They have a pool table, darts, all the TV sports channels and a well running bar. The owner, Pauline, has been running the place with finesse and a smile for some time now, and she'll always make you feel right at home.
Spin control... If shaking your money-maker under the laser strobes is your thing, then Zouk is the place for you. The longest running mega-club in town, amid the lava-red sofas, trippy wall treatments and slick designer bar surfaces, you'll find an even more serious effort which goes into the tunage. Music-industry types, celebrities, models and hipsters, mainly local, turn out every week to shake it 'til dawn with turntable assists from some of the best-established local deejays and a regular influx of international superstar deejays.
Located in a series of warehouses next to the Singapore River, Zouk is actually four clubs in one. If you're up for chilling in something a little more upscale, then check out the Wine Bar. The relaxed cafe atmosphere is a refreshing change of pace from the rest of the complex and has both an indoor and an outdoor terrace, THE place to see and be seen.
Our favorite part of clubbing at Zouk is hanging out in Velvet Underground, which has a more intimate atmosphere when it's not too overcrowded. The furniture is plusher, the lights dimmer and you can get closer to the deejay on the dance floor.
Out in the main room, it's nuts to butts when international deejays come to town and raise the roof. If you're looking for something regular to do on Wednesday nights, then the Mambo Jambo sessions are worth checking out, although with the increase in competition there has been a decrease in the crowd on this well established night. Weekends are always on, and once you queue in, if you don't find your way to Velvet Underground, you'll do well to head straight to the dance floor and shake it 'til you break it!
But nipping on the heels of the above club in the eyes of Singapore scenesters (and, it seems, every tourist who blows into town) is St James Power Station and Ministry of Sound. Once filled, the former provides another good clubbing option, though as a venue it suffers from it's mass-market appeal and an overall lack of "going off" energy. Still, it has come a long way since opening under the direction of Singapore's Godfather of Clubbing, Dennis Foo. This much ballyhooed entertainment complex contains nine party places totaling 60,000 sq feet.
The first to open was Movida, regularly featuring salsa, samba, bossa nova, batucada and other Latino beats by an eight-piece Columbian band and some fairly talented deejays. Entry into any one of the venues gets you access to the eight others, so you can cruise around and find something to suit your mood. Just be careful not to wander outside, even if you have a hand stamp, you'll have to re-queue behind the newcomers.
They also have an ageist ladies' night policy, if you're over 35 (or look it), you gotta buy your own drinks. The other outlets include the Bellini Room (Big band, swing and jazz), Mono (popular with the karaoke crowd), the Gallery Bar, (a great spot to check out the action in all the other clubs), and the Powerhouse, a 10,000-sq foot dance club. Outside is Peppermint Park, an outdoor bar perfect for getting some fresh air and relaxing with friends.
For the most definitive house and techno in the most suitable setting, though, the Ministry of Sound outranks them both. First, this gutted quayside warehouse has a sound system that is more epic in scale. I know we took a cheap shot at them above, but this IS the world's biggest Ministry of Sound establishment, a 40,000 square foot dance Mecca with a multi-million dollar sound system, a temple designed purely for worshipping the groove under a state-of-the-art audio and visual effects system, sure to please those with a passion for such things.
MoS promised to be a truly global DJ platform, importing the crème de la crème of the world's deejay scene, but we find Zouk has them beat in the beats department. While MoS consistently pumps out an eclectic selection of music, it's not quite the same thing as the original Ministry of Sound, and Zouk gets our vote for being very original and bringing in better acts more frequently.
We mention fairly here that the age limit is lower than Zouk and St James, but there are areas suitable for the adult clubber; the various genre-specific rooms which serve up everything from progressive house to funky beats, electro, indie-rock, hip-hop/RnB (for an authentic hip-hop and RnB experience, stick to RedBar), disco and house.
Pay for play... Prostitution is big business in Singapore. It's legal, regulated, and has an enormous client base of mostly "guest workers", ocean faring working men and jet setting businessmen. Anyone even remotely aware of AIDS and STDS wouldn't in a million years actually advise participating in the trade, precautions or not. It's just not worth the risk of something going wrong. Nevertheless, business flourishes in every budget range and not just in Singapore but also in port towns throughout South East Asia.
Any taxi driver can take you to an eye-opening example of what free market capitalism means here. Prostitution is restricted to designated red-light areas (DRA's) of which there are about four or five, all fairly close together.
There are a total of about 400 brothels in the city with an estimated 10 to 20 prostitutes working in each one. While the government doesn't release sleaze figures, there are about 6,000 prostitutes in the city according to David Brazil's book No Money, No Honey! But you know the government knows, prostitutes are required to carry a yellow health card and must report for monthly health checks.
And while sex workers and public brothels are legal, solicitation and pimping is not, and both can lead to lengthy jail terms. Even in the red-light districts, there are no "legal" streetwalkers. The DRAs are located in Flanders Square, Geylang, Keong Saik Road and Desker Road. Most brothels cater to locals. Aside from the DRAs, there are places like Orchard Towers (catering to westerners) and the Golden Mile Shopping Centre on Beach Road (which mainly serves Thais), both areas that have become centers for prostitution.
Additionally, there are escort services and private call girls (and boys), and a multitude of "buy me drink" bars, usually located in old shop houses converted into small bars. And the weird thing is, Singapore (where prostitution is legal) is not the sex capitol of Asia, an honor which goes to Bangkok, where prostitution is illegal. Such is the surrealism of this wonderful country.
Ladies Nights... All over Singapore, on almost any night, ladies can partake of free-flow nights and special drink promotions. The clubs and bars all know that if you give ladies free drinks they'll bring in a friend or two to keep her company and watch their back so if she should get too drunk for all the guys that follow.
This tradition has died down a bit as compared to a few years ago, but is still a very strong tradition. Yes, it's sexist, yes, it's cheesy, and yes, it's free, so who cares? Just beware that there have been some high profile cases of "ugly" and "too manly" women getting blocked from participating, and St James Power Station has a firm policy that anyone over 35 and in a nightclub, is no lady.
Etiquette... (or how to behave and not land up in the clink). Singapore is still very much a rule bound society, which can often be easily forgotten when you're working on your second bottle of Absolut. Suffice it to say, don't do anything your mom wouldn't be proud of and you'll have no problems.
The Women's Charter gives women special protection, especially the right to not have her "modesty" outraged. That means you can get in trouble for unwanted touching (oddly enough, the reverse is not true, she can feel you up all she wants), or any other lewd behavior. When drinking with local friends, you'll often pour each other drinks from your beers as a gesture of friendship.
If you're drinking beer, reciprocate from your own bottle. A hard liquor drinker may invite you to drink from their bottle, and will fix a drink for you. You won't have to reciprocate in this case, unless you have your own bottle. It is customary to pour alcoholic drinks for others before pouring for one's self.
While you might be taken back forking out $150++ for a bottle that should cost about $30 US, alcohol is highly taxed and the cost of operating a pub is also very high, hence the high prices. If you think you'll be called upon to buy a bottle, be sure to keep your eyes open for special promotions.

Jingle the keys... All along the Singapore river is a lovely pathway winding through the heart of Singapore's nightlife entertainment and lifestyle soul, the Quays (pronounced 'keys'). From the ultra posh Post Bar in the Fullerton Hotel down through Boat Quay, Riverside Point, Clarke Quay, Robertson Quay all the way to Zouk, you will find enough entertainment, drinking and dining options to ensure that you never have to go the same place twice.
And unlike venues elsewhere in town, these places don't rotate tenants too often, so in this part we'll outline some of the established gems for you to discover and enjoy... the real Singapore River experience.
The above mentioned Post Bar is a great place for High-Tea and fine wine, located in a neo-classical architectural favorite built in 1928. Popular with a stylish business crowd, they serve a large menu of fine wines, martinis and signature cocktails. But the Quays really start at the Penny Black at Boat Quay.
This archetypical Victorian Public House was built in England and shipped and installed in its entirety at its present location. Enjoy 'al fresco' dining outside or the London-style tavern area inside. Upstairs is a 'snug bar', which makes a great setting for informal business and social get-togethers.
Located right next door is the original Harry's Bar, made famous by the legendary Rogue Trader who used to hang out here. Live jazz music from the house band spills out onto the walkway and once you become a local, you'll be finding yourself calling it home. Recently Harry's has been on a franchising binge, so you can enjoy the Harry's experience all over town.
Not too far away and off the river is Molly Malone's Irish Pub on Circular Road, and is as packed during lunch time as it is at night. This cozy and authentic pub with a low roof is as comfortable as the womb and a favorite spot to pop into for a pint or to catch the occasional live band.
Back on Boat Quay, the next noteworthy local is BQ Bar (left). Not exactly enjoying it's heyday anymore as THE meeting spot for SPGs and the banker boys they all seem to love, this venue still offers great drinks in a casual environment, and don't get us wrong, it still goes off on the weekends.
Aside from the multitude of touts who will try to convince you to dine at their worthy restaurants featuring some of the best dining options in town, you'll find the quay gets a little grungier the further you head towards the bridge. One place worth checking out is Sahara, where you can enjoy very affordable cocktails and a few puffs from the shisha pipe which mixes nicely with the scents coming from the middle eastern restaurant next door.
Upstairs, tucked away on the third floor is the Fez Bar, a den of inequity well worth spending some time in playing pool or just pounding away drinks with a friendly crowd of regulars. At 75b Boat Quay on the 3rd level, secreted in a loft above the main thoroughfare, is Chillie's, an undiscovered nook that plays World Music, especially Rock, with large screen projections with an comfortable lounge atmosphere. A favorite service-industry after-hours hangout in Boat Quay.
Down the street and tucked upstairs is another den, where jazz reigns supreme. Jazz @ Southbridge has been true to this genre of music for years. Don't expect to find much of the usual pop-love jazz vibe here at this joint above Coffee Bean - the old blues love of musical experimentation and improvisation burns amongst its musicians and regular customers alike. Its repertoire of musicians is impressive and you can catch exceptional international guests throughout the year.
Across the river with a great nighttime view of Boat Quay is the newly opened Timbre Music Bar at the Arts House. This location seems to be a bit cursed, as this is the fourth venue in this location in as many years... lets hope they have better luck than the previous tenants. Next door is the Opiume Bar, located at the Asian Civilizations Museum. Asides from it's posh interior with big windows and Czech crystal chandeliers, it's better to sit riverside and enjoy the breathtaking views of the Singapore River, Boat Quay and the city skyline.
Back on the Boat Quay side of the river, once you get under the bridge, is Home Club. This little club has great riverside seating, and brings some of the best turntable talents to town, which end up packing the house to maximum. Popular with the indie/arts scenesters, it attracts a decent enough amount of the international crowd to make it worth checking out. Usually deejay based entertainment is spiced up with power-chord ripping bands on occasion.
As you move on from there under another bridge, you'll see, and maybe hear, the shrieking of people being shot into the air by a reverse gravity bungee jump. This is the beginning point of Clarke Quay. The bar next to it is called, simply enough, the Bungy Bar, and it's a popular watering hole with the expat scene. Most of the bar is located outdoors, but you can still catch the band inside, or sports matches on any of the conveniently located TV screens.
Clarke Quay is as Disneylandish as Singapore gets, bright, garish, reconstructed shophouses and cartoonish architecture will have you feeling like you just entered Toon Town, but trust us when we say that's half the fun... there are literally dozens of places worth checking out in this mega-mall of entertainment outlets. To set you on the right track, we'll recommend a few noteworthy outlets.
Of course there's the Ministry of Sound, mentioned already. Another option for getting your groove on is Attica and Attica Too. These are the guys who got the party started at CQ, way back when the rest of the outlets were still dirty old warehouses. Singapore's only place worthy of it's velvet rope, they have a strict style policy, and as such, until you're a regular or a celebrity, you'll have to queue up to get in, and forget about jeans and sneakers... it ain't happening.
Popular with foreign models and the moneyed party set, it's actually a very groovy place to hang out and make friends. The music is always good, the cocktails expertly served and strong, and the meet-market factor is actually not that bad.
Right next door, the 1Nite Stand Comedy Club and Bar is another long established venue popular with Brits and hosts the best (and only) comedy night in town. Their pizzas are divine, and the cover band always gets the crowds moving on the small dance floor, fuelled by the ever talented bar team. However, as of press time, it's rumored that the lease is up on this venue, so this establishment might be gone or moved by the time you read this. If you never made it there... you've missed out on a great place.
A lot of the same crowd as the 1Nite Stand hangs out at the Pump Room (reviewed in the microbrewery section) and the Highlander. This abode to all things whiskey, will have you feeling frisky, until you get dizzy... so don't over do it, 'til you can do it right. Here you'll find some of the best whiskey to come down from the Highlands or up from the Lowlands, and you'll always find a new discovery even if you fancy yourself a connoisseur.
Not exactly a bar or club per se, one spot worth it's hot wings and short shorts is Hooters. Their happy hour specials and Monday night specials are always worth a visit, and located right on the quayside by the old riverboats, the river scene isn't the only eye candy to feast on.
Ask any regular and they will tell you that the Crazy Elephant provides the coziest atmosphere for listening to live music, which runs the gamut from jazz to rock and blues, helmed by a couple of resident bands, a mix of locals and expatriates, who have garnered a strong following in their years here. Sundays are reserved for spontaneous jam sessions. Local bands are also invited to play, as well as luminaries who've graced this venue, including Robbie Williams, Eric Burdon and the Animals, and even REM and Deep Purple!
Located above the 1Nite Stand is a unique Singapore venue known as Gotham Penthouse. It's one for the ladies, as hot dudes with good looks, rippling muscles and washboard abs gyrate to the rhythm while, hold on gals; topless! Popular for girls-night-out and hen parties, the male exotic dancers are a stripper group known as Odyssey.
They started showcasing the five-man act from Johannesburg earlier this year, dressed in provocative costumes and dancing seductively for the largely female audience. The dancers have been specially selected to appeal to local tastes, instead of being overly hunk, they are of medium build, but according to women who have been there, they're all extremely hot!
There are many other themed outlets in CQ, all worth checking out, but now we'll head across the footbridge to Riverside Point, home of the best microbrewery in town, Brewerkz, (also reviewed in the brewery section).
Located near it is Cafe Iguana, home to hundreds of types of tequilas and the best margaritas and Mexican food in town. If you find yourself with a fierce craving for a burrito or a flauta or anything with beans rice tomatoes and cheese, head on here to satisfy it and knock bag a jug or two while you're there. You won't be disappointed.
Back on the Clarke Quay side of the river, if you keep walking along the foot path or hail a cab for the shortest ride ever, you'll find yourself at the beginning of Robertson Quay, which is a little bit quieter than its more celebrated cousins, but in its own way, a lot more sophisticated and noteworthy. Due to the high concentration of housing and hotels, the noise volume never really pumps up, which is a great thing for relaxing with friends and family on the cool river over good food and drinks.
Harry's @ the Pier is located here, and is popular with the residents in the area. To pump up the energy a little bit, stop into BarCelona for a little bit of Spain in Singapore. A popular hangout spot for soccer fans, they have just renovated the interior and menu, and both are looking good! This dimly-lit bar cum restaurant has a warm glow to it, thanks to candles, and the huge pool table and even bigger TV screen dominate the venue, as do the heavenly scents wafting out of the kitchen.
As scent and sense pleasing is Brussels Sprouts, a cool-euro zone serving specialty Belgian beers and mussels in more ways that you can count on two hands. Be sure to try the Belle-Vue Kriek, a bubbly beer that tastes great with a fruity flavor.
Giving the Highlander a run for it's money is a Japanese whiskey bar, called Bar 84, with hundred of varieties of whiskey. A small little place big on style, the Japanese barmen know their stuff and will wow you with their showmanship and an array of magic tricks.
You'll pay $10 to get it, but it's well worth it for a surreally sweet experience. If whiskey's not your thing, you could do worse than to pop into Tasting Notes, a casual wine bar stocked with over 200 vintages of wines from around the world. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the large glass windows are a great place to people watch in the early evenings.
A little further down is eM by The River. Operated by the Emerald Hill Group, this is a very chill bar with lots of trees and water features, a simply chic and comfortable place to chill out on comfortable couches while listening to the sounds of laughter and crickets.
Don't forget of course, the Buttery Factory, detailed previously, we'll just note that this place if groovy with a capital G. Fly girls and beat boys strut their stuff in this, the most artsy of bar/clubs in town. The staff and management are friendly and all about fun, so we're sure you'll enjoy..
If you go further and cross the river, you'll end up at the aforementioned Zouk. Head up the hill from Robertson Quay and you'll find yourself in the once fabled Mohamed Road area. Lots of people think this street is dead, over, kaputz, etc, but this is simply not true... it's just matured, grown up and become more adult. As of this writing, the last of the parang wielding cheap booze joints has shut for good and the whole street can breath a sigh of relief.
The crown jewel of this road is Martini Firm, a daybed bar which oozes casual chic. Come enjoy the soft glow of white while you enjoy your martinis in bed or sample from the spiceology menu. The owner of this place is American, and takes attention to detail to a perfect level with a quality experience perfect for meet-ups with friends or business partners.
En Japanese has been around for ages, and is almost as famous for it's trendy Tokyo-style taste treats as for having some of the best priced drinks to wash them down with. Nearby, but up the price scale, (and very worth it) is Coffee Bar K, a Ginza and Chiba based firm which opened here in April. Stylishly sleek, you'll know it's expensive when you walk in the door and are handed a warm towel (so as not to get any dirt on the cash you'll be pulling outta your wallet).
Settle yourself into one of the posh leather chairs and enjoy an exquisitely made cocktail while you feel like a millionaire. If you love whiskey, they have an impressive holding of Single-malts from both Scotland and Japan. Enjoy yours on the rocks and it comes in a hefty Baccarat lowball glass with a giant, round and crystal clear ice cube, hand-chipped by the bartender himself!
If you can sense a Japanese vibe going on, you'd be right. Especially if you popped into Nihonshu where they stock more than 100 different brands of sake labels. Enjoy them by the bottle or in a warmed decanter, a great place to entertain and be entertained. Kampai!
For youthful exuberance and fun, nothing beats the dbl O and O Bar complex. Enjoy their ever-popular $3 premium house pour drinks (per glass) or $12 a jug. Even with the low prices, dbl O prides itself on serving only quality house pours from premium brands. A cover charge of $25 gets you great cheap premium drinks, a kickin' sound system and lots of very friendly people to party the night away with.
Brewing up good times... While going on about the river valley area, it's worth mentioning that all the microbreweries in town are located within a short cab ride from each other.
Rather than list them in the other sections, we'll put them in their own section... the Kings of brew are none other than Brewerkz at Merchant Court, across from Clarke Quay. Hands down the town's favorite brew joint, and not just coz they're located on the river. While great food served indoors or al fresco is reason enough for coming in, it's really the beers why everybody comes here.
They've got the most extensive range of specialty beers, from yummy fruit blends, to Indian Pale Ale to a Pilsner that's just as good as the kind you find in the Czech Republic.
And this is not just my opinion. Learned experts at no less than the Australian International Beer Awards gave them a host of awards this year, including a gold, two silvers and a bronze for their entries. Gold and Best in Category awards were won for their Hopback entry, which is well known as one of Asia's only "real ales" made in the traditional English style with a secondary fermentation in the serving vessel.
The Pump Room in the Foundry at Clarke Quay is a great place for micro-brews. They've also got a great food menu and live music featuring a high energy band who knows how to rock the house... maybe that's the secret for their great tasting brews and why a pint of the micro brewed IPA rocks!
Archipelago Brewery Company on Circular Road and in Far East Square is the revival of a brand that was established in 1931 and was the first commercial brewery in Singapore. They have three great beers on tap: Trader's Ale, a hoppy beer for those who like it strong, Straits Pale, nice on a hot day when you don't want to get overpowered, and our fave, the Traveler's Wheat, which is unlike any other wheat beer you've tried.
For those in the know, you can taste the Belgian yeast. But they've added Asian spices like Assam, Lemon grass, Chinese orange peel, ginger, and coriander to create a unique beer that's reason enough for visiting.
A cool place with Bavarian charm and lots of wood, the perfect place to go with group of friends when you need a good beer is none other than Paulaner Brauhaus at Suntec City. Pop in for some live music by a fairly decent cover band and some great food and the German style brew.
Nothing better that quaffing a Munich Lager and gnawing on a pork knuckle or Wienerschnitzel with a side of Spaetzle. Follow that up with a nice piece of apple strudel for dessert and of course more beer, perhaps a Munich Dark for a big thumbs up? If you have a hankering for middle European food and beer, this place has got it down right.
Noteworthy joints... It would really take a chapter as big as this book to fairly outline all the great places in Singapore. And with the doubling in the number of venues you know that many of them will fall victim to the competition sometime during their oftentimes-short business cycle. But here follows a list of notable venues which have been around for some time, so get off the beaten path and discover Singapore!
Altivo, located on one end of the Mt. Faber Cable Car line, is a huge hangout with three levels. Popular for wedding receptions, the viewing deck has an amazing view of Sentosa and the Harbor. You'll have to take a cab here, (or the cable car!) but it's well worth it for the ambience, the food, the house band and of course, the view.
Laid back, and slightly upscale at the same time, Ballymoons is a great executive hangout just opposite the infamous Orchard Towers. A perfect place to enjoy martini's with friend, it's located right above it's sister outlet Muddy Murphey's, which is a favorite hang out for those homesick for all things Dublinish.
Down at Suntec, Durty Nelly's just opened up by the same great folks at Gaelic Inns, is where you'll find after hours office workers winding down with Guinness and pies... also at Suntec, just across the street, is Balaclava, a classy watering hole with great service and fantastic drinks. Worth every penny and a great way to socialize with local working professionals.
A great place to c how d own while chilling o ut is the Balcony Bar at the Heeren. As popular at lunch for it's food, at night, it becomes a pre-movie hang out when the day cools down (it's open air with no aircon), with a plush interior an imaginative cocktails that will have you swearing you were in ol' paree. And it's open 24 hours! Beaver's American Pub on Liang Seah Street caters to a mixed local and expat crowd, who come in for just two things; shoot some pool and drink some good cold beer. Preferably at the same time.
Brix, in the Grand Hyatt's basement, features guest bands from all over the world, and customers can choose from a wide range of cocktails and liqueurs, or even custom make one themselves. As with most hotel bars, dress nice or don't bother coming. Back behind Centrepoint near Starhub Centre is a quaint little bar that we love. The Cable Car 1890's Saloon on Cuppage Terrace has a second floor executive bar (if you're worthy), and a cozy long bar with free internet access, so you can experience what the 1890s would have been like if they'd had internet access.
Just off Orchard in the Winsland Conservation House is one of the best Irish pubs in Singapore. With a friendly staff and great drinks, The Dubliner is the place to go if you like a hearty crowd of hard drinking regulars.
In the same vein is Shamus O'Donnell's, tucked away at 54 Tras Street. The official home of the Newcastle Fan Club, Shamus is an Irish Pub similar in style the locals in Ireland, and serves Irish beer. Sports served on a big screen TV too.
Suffice it to say, if you go to Chijmes, you can't go wrong, but don't go there expecting a wild and crazy time. Chijmes is a bit more refined, and much more food oriented. A couple of notable exceptions are Insomnia, and Le Baroque and its sister La Cave at the fountain court level. Le Baroque is a great watering hole with an excellent sound system featuring some of the best local live bands around.
Most notable is Douglas O and Satellite, who move the groove with a polished skill set and an infectious beat. La Cave is a wine bar, a little cavern of a place (hence the name) where you can get close to your fellow man (and women) while enjoying bottle after bottle of wine. Oh yeah, tucked in the back, downstairs, is Carnival, a nice little local with a Latin beat featuring Brazilian bands and deejays.
Down near Raffles hotel and with a great view of the Singapore skyline is the rooftop bar known as Loof. Not to be confused with the rooftop beer bar of the same name in Japan, Loof brings on the sexy grooves in sensual setting with lots of comfy furniture. They even have drink specials when it starts raining. A perfect place for meeting up before heading out for a long night of clubbing.
The Prince of Wales in Little India, while a backpackers hostel, is also a live music venue, popular with locals and expats as well. There's great outdoor seating, a nice friendly atmosphere and they serve Aussie brew Grand Ridge on tap! Another great place to enjoy outdoor seating, due to the fact that this bar takes up the whole rooftop, is, you guessed it, the Rooftop Bar. Located on Pagoda Street in Chinatown, it's a great place to bring your biz clients, after work chats, meet up or bring that romantic date.
They're located right above Xen Bar, which caters to salsa aficionados, as does the bigger and better Union Square in the Amara Shopping Centre. Billing itself as "The Home Of Latin Beats" it is the only full Latino club in Singapore. Deejays spin the complete Latin dance beats all under one roof so you can dance away the night with the deejay alternating with a Latin Band from Columbia.
Fridays are Ladies Nites Free Flow house pours to all gals. There is a separate Wine Bar where you will be entertained by Singers / Comedians/ Entertainers from the USA and Australia.
If being in such a big space is not your mood, check out Roomful of Blues on Princip Street, located in a cluster of ever changing venues, this authentic blues bar is a great place to listen to the music which knows so well how you're feeling.
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