Hungarian wine grows more noble by the year, but whither the humble Portugieser?

Vintage year 2010 is over, as are all of its competitions, presentations, tastings, challenges and various gatherings of vintners, varietals and vinomaniacs. The results are in, and so, apparently, is Hungary. We knew it (our first issue featured an article on wine and the economic future of Hungary in September).

I am smug, really. In 2006 and 2007, Hungary’s wineries won 29 Decanter awards. By 2009, the number doubled. Last year, 86 wines won Decanter awards. The future is here, and it is mirthful and comes in a bottle.

I tried hard to find a dark lining to go along with this silver (and gold, bronze, and Decanter Award-hued) cloud, but only came up with one curmudgeonly note. Portugieser is still a bit under-appreciated.

I will say that perhaps the best Portugieser is not always on offer. I will also say that, “Bull’s Blood” (Egri Bikavér) deserves the lavish attention some of its Decanter awards note. I will admit with a note of guilt that (regardless the political correctness of the sentiment), the idea of the wine rising from an unlikely victory over Suleiman’s horde is especially tickling. More in next month’s column on that...

Hungarian Portugieser (or Blauer Portugieser) is traditionally made for the feast of St. Martin (November 11), served young, perhaps after a bit of aging in oak. It seems, especially in this late month, simply not as available as other wines. But rarer still is a good and even-handed estimation of its worthiness.

It is considered, “easy drinking,” a term often used vituperatively by those with higher-pointing noses than mine. Sweet and fruity, I will acknowledge that it is sometimes a bit too light. However, I have enjoyed a few worthy bottles.

Bock has an excellent 2008 that i was able to secure and it seemed fuller in body and yet imminently drinkable. I drank it alongside a bit of Bolognese and was quite happy with it.

A few others have been appealing, but I most wish to note the Gere 2009, which I was offered at a social occasion. It had all of the characteristic fruit of the appellation but a depth that surprised me. If you cannot find the Gere, do give the people at Bock Bisztró (VII. Budapest, Erzsébet körút 43, +36 1 321 0340) a quick ring and see what they have on offer or may suggest.

Until next month, vinomaniacs! For now I feel an urge to find a bottle of bull’s blood and harass the local Kebab shop.